Siquijor….you NEED to go

Friday 5th February

Our plan this morning was to take the boat over to Siquijor, one of the islands that we could see from the beach. We were told that there was just one boat a day (by the internet) which we figured was rubbish given how close it was, so enjoyed a rather leisurely rise, faff, and breakfast. Fail. There WAS only one boat per day. Oops.

That said, we weren’t about to just believe that. For starters, to take the boat across the tiny bit of warer to the island we could see would cost us a small fortune and involve taking a moto taxi back to main land, then a boat from Tagbilaran to Damuagete and then another boat to Siquijor. Bonkers.

So, while I packed our bags Ben went for a little walk down to the sea front to see if we could rope someone in to taking us either as a one way trip as part of a tour or just someone headed that way. Twenty minutes later I was packed and checked out, and he came back saying he had spoken to a couple of the locals who yesterday were shouting James Corden at him (or so we thought, turned out to be James Harden, see below (spitting image of Ben!). There was a guy who was able to take us on his brothers, fathers, uncles, cousins boat whenever we wanted for less than the official tourist boat. Winner. We had already booked a place to stay in Siquijor aswell, so to not turn up would have been even more expensive.

We grabbed a freshly roasted chicken and a baguette from a local street seller and made our way with our backpacks down to our boat, we couldn’t resist….and they were only pence! I forgot to mention that last night I had yet another terrifying waxing experience on our way home! I’m giving up on salons here!!

Once down at the seafront the guy was very quick to catch Ben’s eye….he ushered us about 100m up the beach and started asking around who wanted to take us over to Siquijor. Some of the men didn’t even move – clearly not enough money in it for them – but finally two young guys said they would do it.

We loaded up the boat, chicken and bread taking pride of place in the middle, had a mini photoshoot on board our private boat before lathering on the sun lotion. The guys were busy pouring fuel into the guzzling tank and tying bits of rope here and there. The sun was nearing it’s peak heat and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and then just after 1.15pm we set off. There’s something really nice about not taking a tourist bus or boat everytime, other than the fact that communication becomes nigh on impossible.

The journey took us around 2hours…it really didn’t look that far away and probably wasn’t but every ten minutes one of the two guys would nip below deck and we would here a few conspicuous bangs, or the engine would conk out. Never mind, we had nowhere to be per say and were just glad to be on our way. It did strike us at one point that we had just hopped onto a little bamboo balanced boat, with two randoms and were currently just floating around in the middle of the ocean where the sea although blue had that very dark black almost colour not far below the surface. The chicken soon distracted us from those thoughts.

We arrived at a completely derelict little beach that looked more like someones back garden with a couple of tiny fishing boats moored up at the shore. As the water was so shallow we had to hop off the boar walk to the shore. One of the guys very kindly carried my bag for me, the sea bed was covered in some kind of seaweed and rather tickly on the sole, the seaweed disappeared closer to the shore leaving just a completely trasnsparent and almost colourless water. The whole way it was as warm as bath water, never before have I felt the ocean so warm. The beach was a hidden little cove, alot of driftwood and a little washed up rubbish but still complete idyllic as it was cut off from the world. If it wasn’t for the boats it was completely lifeless.

We followed the guy up some rubbish covered track up a little hill and were soon enough behind someones little small holdings….PIGS! 20 metres further and we were at the road. The guys said his goodbye and we thanked him before crossing over into the shade. The sun was burning.

A couple of friendly locals were smiling at us, one stood very proudly next to his tuktuk as if he was our butler. We asked if he was a taxi man, he just smiled, we told him that we needed to get to Charisma Beach which was on the other side of the island. I think that he saw us as a bank, but also had no concept of taxi fares either (as he wasn’t a taxi man) and came out with some ridiculous figure which we politely declined and decided to commence the walk. We would fiigure something out, or someone would drive past. We hoped. We walked for about 2km, all the locals stopping to say hello and ask where we were going. They would all smile, laugh and say ‘very far’ or ’35km’ and we would smile and laugh back. Oh please, someone drive past. We stopped for a little breather outside a ladies house, she was selling cocacola so we had a little sugar hit, she kindly fetched us two of her best glassesd and even dug out some ice for us. Luck was with us, a collectivo drove past and for 10 pesos (15p) he would take us to Siquijor town where we could get a moto taxi from. Perfect. We sat in the back with his wife and baby and within 10 minutes were at the main (tourist) ferry port where there were plenty of taxis waiting.

We hopped into a taxi and were on our way. The driver was very friendly and slowed down to let us take photos of the school run – never have you seen so many kids squished into a single tuk tuk!! They loved us taking their photos too and played up for the camera. The driver even slowed down to let his wife and grand daughter say hello as we passed his house. Such a happy chappy! We arrived at Charisma and waved goodbye.

The place was more like a basic hotel than a hostel, a pool, little restaurant and bar and was beach front. What a view. All for a hostel price. We decided we would rent a scooter while we were here as everything was pretty spread out so once we had dumped our bags we headed over the road to find one, the guy who rented us one had to run around the local shops to find us one but ten minutes later we were good to go.

He told us about a party that was happening tonight, another one tomorrow and then cock fighting on Sunday. What an action packed weekend! Apparently everyone who was anyone would be at all three events! We spent the rest of the afternoon hanging out at the beach, enjoying the sunset and then for dinner headed to a place that was opposite the party location. It was about 15 minutes away on the scooter and in the middle of nowhere, surely this couldn’t be right?

Anyway, we ordered dinner and figured we could assess the party situation later and make a call on it. Our dorm was about ten people and they were all headed this way after dinner. The place we ate at was recommended and very popular amongst the few westerners and the locals, Ben went for a Burger and I had the chicken. There was a big buffet banquet behind us, including a pig roast which we may just have to come back for!

Really randomly, the toilet doors had a Barbie and Ken on them to distinguish boys and girls! At around 11pm, we finished our drinks and decided to head over the road. There were a few more scooters parked outside now, so we paid our 10 pesos to the lady who was sat outside the garden gate (that’s literally what it looked like) and headed inside. Two girls from our dorm were with us, they too had eaten at the restaurant with a French couple.

We walked in, there was a big club house with a make shift bar inside, it looked pretty rubbish but we persisted and tried to find the others from our dorm. We failed BUT we did find a huge stage set up out the back that seemed to have somehow been concealed by the club house and trees! There was a band on stage who were so energetic playing all sorts of music and hundreds of Filipinos dancing and drinking away.

It was like a mini festival in there. The locals were of course very interested in us and immediately we had a group of them around us, chatting away, dancing and cheers-ing us at every oppurtunity, inviting us to dance with them. I got the impression that the locals like to have a table as the centre of their group as plastic tables kept appearing and being crowd surfed to their required spot. There were young teens and everyone through to grandma and grandpas age at the event! Friday night, this is the place to be!

We headed home around 2.30am, I wasn’t drinking. Outside was just a sea of scooters, so to try and extract ours was certainyl a mission! Our room mates weren’t far behind, but as there was a group of them they struggled for a taxi and in the end asked a police man to take them home, who kindly obliged! Brilliant.

Saturday 6th February

This morning I was up super early. I wanted to watch the sunrise over the beach given how close it was, and couldn’t sleep very well as I wasn’t in a beer coma and the cockrells were crowing from around 5am.

By 6am I was out in the hammock taking in the mornings activities. The once shallow sea was now over 1km out leaving behind it just a carpet of green seaweed infested with little creatures. Hundreds of crabs combed the beach and some sort of little urchin type body hid in the green.

Boats were beached, waiting for the water to come back and save them and locals were out in force collecting sea urchins to sell in the day ahead. The sand was almost boggy, swampy to walk through, a very weird feeling, but I can imagine quite theraputic and doing wonders for my feet….the kind of product you would be sold in a shopping mall. I walked up the beach a little, there were hundreds of huge shells, my legs were now covered in the swampy sand mid way up my calves!

I decided to take refuge on a sun lounger at the front of the hotel and just watch say break. The sea was creeping in closer to the shore, and more locals were appearing – along with a couple of crazy Europeans who were out for a morning run on the beach.

At around 7.30am I ordered a coffee from the bar which was now open, and watched as a big group of local kids and adults swept the beach picking up any litter that had come in overnight. That’s why its so clean!

For the rest of the morning I just hung out at the beach before waking Ben up in time for poached egg and toast Breakfast elevenses. Poached eggs – amazing! My favourite, and I have missed them. The lady who took my order thought I said potched eggs and when I explained that I was wanting boiled eggs but out of the shells she looked absolutely horrified. Two minutes later she came back out of the kitchen laughing at herself and misunderstanding confirming she knew exactly what I meant.

We took to the scooter just after mid day to explore the island. We were going to the old enchanted tree and Cambugahay waterfalls today and well, whatever else we fancied on the way. The island was surprisingly hilly, and I mean some big hills. The kind where we would both lean forward on the scooter to try and get up! The others from our dorm were donig the same, but as there were six of them they were opting for a tuk tuk, that took some negotiation so we nipped ahead and said we would meet them there.

At the tree, there was a pool just below which had the fish pedicure fish in it. Gross. My feet were not going in there! They were HUGE aswell. The tree itself was pretty cool, ridden with spiders though.

Just as we were leaving, the others arrived. There wasn’t really anything to do there so we didn’t hang around. The falls were around 30 minutes away, so off we went, passing through little villages and rice paddies galore.

We passed St Isidore de Labrador Church, one of the top things to do in Siquijor. It was a big tin church with loads of people sat around outside, as if they were queueing for their giro cheque! The drive was reallty beautiful, up high we could see more miles over the trees, with some rather daunting hair pin turns – you never know when a chivay could come zooming around on your side of the road! We arrived at Cambugahay falls and were greeted by a little car park attendant type man. Funny really, as there was no car park, but he was very good in telling us not to leave anything valuable at the pools and to lock it in our vehicles or to take turns in the pools, oh, and that we could pay our parking ticket after we had been for a dip. Thanks old chap!

We walked down some steep steps following the sound of kids laughing and playing. Wow. When that crystal blue colour poked through the trees, it was just indescribable. Yes, we have been to waterfalls before, but this was beautiful.

Perhaps because the sun was doing a fantastic job of illuminating it, or the fact that it looked like a washed off paint brush pot but it was gorgeous. There was a rope which kids were hanging onto and plunging into the pool below and then multiple shallower pools all framed by lush greenery.

Ben swung from the rope swing while I waited with our things per the old mans advise, by the time I fancied a dip Ben had dried off so I decided not to….nothing worse than being on a scooter soggy! We stayed about 45 minutes and decided we would come back this afternoon when it was even hotter to cool off on the way home. Again, just as we left…the others arrived!

Our next stop was well, anywhere. We had maps.me to check out recommended places, but decided just to follow the roads. There was one main loop road so you were never far from that. The reason so few people go to Siquijor is because they think it’s haunted.

There are supposed to be two different kinds of witches who live here, so of course, this afternoon what better way to fill the time than to go witch hunting. We made our way further around the island, stopping to take photos as we could now see right over the sea of palms covering the island to the ocean over the other side of the island, but before we headed inland stopped at a little road side store for a top up of sunscreen and a cool drink.

The ladies in the shop loved us. You could buy everything here, I mean everything, from shampoo to inner tubes, rope to rice! A few locals sat opposite, day drinking, and well, they were definately day drunk but having a great time.

We continued onwards to the ‘healers fields’ but we didn’t have any luck in finding any witches. The ride and views were amazing, often the roads would turn into sandy dirt tracks, a little challenge for Ben to try and keep us upright! We carried on ending up at some sort of little caving attraction.

We thought about doing it but neither of us were really very interested in it and instead continued our loop back towards where we lived for some late lunch (4.30ish). We decided to watch the sunset at our beach tonight, the sun literally set into the horizon taking with it the heat that warmed our skin whilst sat in the super shallow sea, it was stunning.

After a little disco nap we went down the road for some food. We ended up at a neighbouring hotel as everywhere had stopped serving (it was only 9pm). Conveniently the hotel was opposite tonights party destination, so we crossed the road afterwards to check it out.

It was awful, not a scratch on last nights so after about an hour we decided to head home instead where the others were sat in the pagoda sipping on some beers. We joined them and conversations later Ben was practising a section of his pending best man speech on his awaiting audience! It was down a treat. Can’t wait to hear the whole thing in a few weeks.

Super chilled, today was awesome. I absolutely love island life.

Sunday 7th February

Today was the day of the cock fight, however we hadn’t realised just how far away it was (we had now returned our scooter) and one of the guys in our dorm said that it was better in Palawan where we were headed next so while we had this super gorgeous beach front location we decided to enjoy it.

That said, after breakfast we ended up spending literally the whole day doing admin. The internet as you would expect is pretty slow here, but even the others who had been out to a nearby beach for a few hours were shocked to see us still sat in the same seats. I mean, it wasn’t a terrible office, but it was painfully slow. We were trying to book a few little flights, and so had to spend a chunk of time sussing out the best combo and work out our dates before the tedious task of actually booking them. But we did it. And spent the rest of the afternoon just hanging out at the beach in the sea and enjoying that gorgeous view.

For dinner, we headed out with everyone in our dorm to a local grill place, it was a short walk away and deliscious. I think I had one of everything! We made our way back to the hotel quite promptly as there was an England rugby match on that the bar staff said we could watch but once we got there, there was no luck with the signal. Boo.

 

 

 

The most beautiful island I’ve ever seen – Koh Lipe

Tuesday 19th January

Today we are heading to Koh Lipe. We’ve only met one person so far that is heading there, and no one who has been. Martin was in the dorm here with us before he went Koh Lipe.

Our pick up was at 10.30am, well due then and arrived at about 10.45am (not bad!) already on board were a couple of Brits, two French, and two Germans. We threw our bags on the roof and waved goodbye to the lovely folks who had looked after us the past few days. We had to make one more stop before heading to the pier, we collected two older Swedish couples from a super fancy resort. They weren’t very impressed trying to get their suitcases on the roof, and instead waited for the hotel concierge to do it. They then had to squeeze into seats which fit around 2 people and a single butt cheek. The rear boot was left open for them to have a little more leg room which they found just all to exciting, and started a photo shoot. Once at the pier we grabbed an iced coffee and a pain au chocolat for the journey.

We then had to go through various ticket booths changing, exchanging, claiming and collecting various tickets and vouchers for our journeys and baggage, and finally we were allowed to sit still for two minutes to eat. We were then bundled on to the speed boat, and true to its booking confirmation, it was a speed boat. Ben and I claimed two of the hard formed plastic seats, I used my life jacket as a bit of padding to try and make it a little more comfortable. Our luggage followed. We were set. The boat was full, but each person had a seat which was rather nice (and novel for SEAsia). I forgot to mention how exceptional our pastries and coffees were! Recommended for anyone down at the pier!

As our new journey began, our headphones plugged in and we kicked back. We hadn’t been travelling that long (perhaps an hour) when we were stopping. In what appeared to be the middle of the ocean! Up next to us pulled a long tail boat. It did cross my mind that he could have been a pirate or bandit, but most likely was collecting a passenger and taking them to a neighbouring island. Exactly that.

We then continued about 40 minutes further before stopping again. This time we were at a beach and slowed down on the approach. The water was crystal. It was beautiful. I wanted to get in. The boat turned around and reversed towards the beach, a couple of long tail boats were kissing the shore. After the passengers dismounted we were off again. Next stop…..Koh Lipe. We arrived just after 3pm. Not that its needed, but #nofilter has never felt so satisfying! It was too beautiful for words.

The water here at Pattaya Beach was very shallow (low tide) so the boat was having to navigate the reef and marine life below. Quite a challenge with such a large boat! It was so gorgeous, Ben and I were both delighted that we had made the journey to come down here. Once at the beach we all disembarked and waiting on the white flour like dust that was trying to be sand for the boat guys to unload our bags and walk it to shore. People are just as impatient in this situation in this most beautiful place on earth as they are in grey London gatwick knowing they have to go back to work tomorrow. It was the mad baggage belt at an airport scenario. The Swede’s topped this list. They were desperate to load their long tail up and leave. I guess they were staying in one of the big resorts on the other side of the island.

Once we had our bags we headed to our hostel. A+ was new, only open for three months and whilst we didn’t have a reservation I’d seen a promotion of their Facebook page which suggested they had space, so we headed there. The island wasn’t cheap, but was no more than the rest of the west coast island. Don’t be fooled into thinking Thailand is cheap anymore folks. Especially not in the desirable months. The hostel was really nice. A capsule concept with both single and double capsules, communal bathroom and a little common room downstairs with TV and plenty of DVD’s.

We quickly dumped our stuff and bolted back to the beautiful powder beach that we had arrived on. We laid out our virtually new beach mats and soaked up the last of the afternoon sun. Ben didn’t waste any time in jumping into the sea. And once he tag teamed me, I was allowed in too. It was so warm, like bath water. And apparently very clear, I didn’t try it though. I wasn’t feeling so much of a pro today. I’ve never seen water so incredible. Fishes swam around my feet and crabs burrowed into the sand. Everything was just wonderful right about now!

We stayed on the beach whilst the sun set and then strolled back through the town stopping for a sweet treat before we managed to squeeze in a little snooze back at the hostel.

This evening we decided to walk the whole of walking street. It had really come alive! We headed right when we reached the cross roads (beach is left) and ended up walking all the way to the other side of the islands beaches. The street was lined with restaurants, bars and trinket and tour shops, all competing for the tourists wallets! One restaurant in particular caught my eye….the were selling huge fish kebabs but that was to be put on the back burner til tomorrow as Ben had his eye on another place which he had read about called Pooh’s. As in, Winnie The. Pooh’s was one of the oldest, most original places on the island which still used and excelled in delivering the original vintage recipes. Their board outside advertised live music on tonight too which sealed the deal. They were particularly famous for a type of curry that they did, so I of course had that, and Ben ordered another staple – Green curry, and as ever we shared spring rolls. Mine was absolutely delicious, so much flavour in that one bowl of orange delight! Like, galangal, chilli, garlic….all the standard items you’d find in a Thai curry, just blended slightly differently and doused in coconut milk. It was the best curry I’d had in a while! 

During dinner Ben asked what time the band were playing, only to be told that they were playing to,or row. Darn it. That would have made us come tomorrow instead and have the fish skewers tonight! Never mind. There were a few spots of rain during dinner, and luckily that’s all that they were as we were outside and uncovered!

After dinner we took a walk down the other end of walking street where by now the street was really busy and plenty more shops had opened up selling crafts, clothes and other local fashions. There was a man playing piano in one restaurant so we stopped outside to listen for a few minutes before continuing down to the beach itself. Along the beach various restaurants had expanded out onto the sand tossing cushions and low tables out for whoever wished to fall there. The obligatory fire show man was out twiddling his hot sticks, though not particularly well. There wasn’t much of an atmosphere down at the beach, despite being 10.30pm so we headed back up into the town where a bar had opened around sunset o clock on the crossroads by our hostel. It was called Maya. It was a very bohemian place, with floor cushions, bean bags, hammocks, no shoes and lights that were encapsulated in twig cages. The light was gorgeous….the kind that would be nice to have at home in the garden!

The bar tender was a little bit doolally but harmless nonetheless, he sand a song that had the lyrics ‘It’s the chicken that we fry fry fry, it’s the chicken that we are frying deep’. Perhaps he was just a little excitable! We opted to sit at the bar on stool which were tall tree trunks topped with bath mats! A unique use for them! The bar tender told us how he was in Koh Lipe working for the season and couldn’t wait to get home to his wife in Bangkok, bless him! We stayed for a couple of drinks and called it a night.

Wednesday 20th January

Eurgh! Snore off!! We have a room mate like no other, comes in drunk obviously lies on his back and snores. Snores like no other. Leaves his curtain open and is half hanging out of his pod anyway and snores. And bizarrely comes home with pockets full of coral – highly illegal! Once snore-a-Saurus Rex got up & went out, we managed to catch a little sleep.

Around 11.30am we headed out to a beach on the opposite side of the island to where we had landed, everything is walkable and didn’t take us long. The water was pretty choppy round here, and the water seemed a little dirtier, though I think anything would have looked dirty compared to yesterday’s! This side of the island there were two smaller islands nearby which you could kayak over to, that’s what we came for. Though on arrival at the beach we took a walk to try and find some kayaks…..to no avail. Bummer. I am now totally going to photo spam because, well, I just couldnt get enough of this place. I want to stay here forever.

The two islands were full of lush green forests, the beach we were walking on was more of the powder white dust, and the sea in between a glorious turquoise – the perfect blend of greens and blues. It was a scorching hot day without a cloud in the sky so we decided to play safe and pitched up under the protection of a little palm tree in front of a resort that was made up of beach front bungalows and villas. It looked fabulous, and what a view. Well, bar the two scraggly backpackers that had just pitched up centre of the frame! A few long tail boats were bobbing around in the water as well as a white boat which I assumed someone at the resort owned and arrived on!

Martin from our hostel happened to walk by and stopped for a chat. He was off on a boat trip this afternoon….we asked him to report back to see whether or not it’s something we should do tomorrow.

Once it reached around 3pm we headed back to the town to grab some late lunch. We walked a slight back way and ended up on a different part of the main street. The walk took us through the local houses where kids were playing, gardeners were chopping down what appeared to be everything, men were sleeping, laundry was hanging and life was continuing as normal. It was hot. Too hot for real life chores!

We stopped at a little shack near to the other beach. Neither of us were very impressed with our food unfortunately. Whilst the beach we spent the morning on was beautiful, we both preferred the sea of Pattaya beach so spent the rest of the afternoon there. This time pitched up under a tree where the public shower was. It provided a nice little cold splash of water to cool off in the burning heat! One more unwelcome user was a rather large Italian man. He had a big round belly, and tiny pants which he had rolled even smaller to fashion into a thong.

DCIM100GOPRO

When I looked up there was a old hairy white Italian bum above me. And when I thought it couldnt get worse, he then proceeded to pull the front of his pants lose and spray the shower down there! Some things are just not meant for public places. That was most definitely one of them!

Locals unloaded supplies onto the beach from long tail boats arriving at the end of the afternoon which were quickly carted off to various locations of the island. The sun set a gorgeous orange colour straight into the sea, perfect.

On our walk back to the hostel, restaurants were getting for the evenings service. One place had a cat helping out. Well, not exactly helping. Just chilling out. On the scales! Was kind of ironic as he was sat on the scales of a fish counter but couldn’t have looked more disinterested in the fish if he tried!

We didn’t got for dinner til bout 9pm. We went to the place where the pianist was playing last night….no fish skewers for me! A guitarist joined him. Neither of whom were particularly good! I ordered a Greek salad with chicken and a side of fries and Ben went for a pizza. Both were delicious. Thank god! The bar was busy, they had games for you to play, and was decorated with all sorts of eclectic items.

It was a nice place to be….just a shame about the shoddy music. Once we had eaten and listened to more than we wanted to we decided to go home. There was a TV and DVD player, and Ben had seen that they had Pan which we both wanted to see. Just as we got back two girls had put a movie on. It was Pan! Winner. For anyone who hasn’t yet seen it, it’s great. Well, the bit that we saw was. The owner came in and told us that he wanted to go to bed so we had to turn it off! So we are still yet to see the final 40 minutes. I’m hoping that it will be on one of our flights!